Oaken Word

Siddhartha taught me to listen to the river. Time is an illusion; the “present” moment is an embraceable gift to us. Instead, we often treat time as a commodity to be spent, or saved, or wasted. The past haunts us, we fear for the future, all the while missing the gift of the present moment.

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I was lucky to spend some time with the oaks this past weekend; paying attention, listening and feeling the gentle vibration of their subtle speech. The last few weeks I’ve been distracted with the burn, inmates and doctor visits but I found calm again in the present moment amongst the oaks.

On Saturday, May 11th, I joined Ginny Coburn and DNR Conservation Biologist Jared Urban for a workday at the Lone Tree Bluff Scenic Overlook to girdle some aspen trees. Jared leads the Endangered Resources (ER) team in southeastern Wisconsin. His crew varies in size from 3-5 people and they are responsible for approximately 20,000 acres.

Jared hobbled to the top of Lone Tree Bluff on crutches due to an ankle sprained while lighting a 90 acre prescribed burn at Lulu Lake on May 6th. This was after the ER team spent the bulk of the day helping to burn the Scuppernong. The expression “Still waters run deep”, was coined with Jared in mind; I calm down just being around him. But, you should have seen his face when he described the fires he lit at the Scuppernong; the tone vanished as his jaw dropped and I could see the 40′ flames reflected in his widened eyes. Below, Jared gives us a natural history lesson and explains the science behind girdling aspen trees.

When you contrast the billions and billions of dollars the government spends on the military, security industrial complex, versus what it spends to nurture the land, it recalls to mind TreeBeard’s lament in The Lord of the Rings that, ‘no one cares about the trees anymore’. The war mongers misleading us, our Saruman’s if you will, have propagandized us using the old divide and conquer strategy, demonizing Muslims, and distracting us from what our real priorities should be here in the homeLAND.

Whew, I’m ranting again. I’ll try to be more calmly passionate (sounds like something Joseph Conrad might have written, not to suggest I could have even sharpened his pencil). We had a lot of fun working together and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

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In the back row Diane, Carol, SwordMan, Princess and Ginny and in the front row, Carol, Thayer and Jared.

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I’m new to this area so I stayed to explore a little. Here are a few shots of the bluff.

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The Bluff Creek Springs emerge from the north side of the moraine and feed Bluff Creek. I had to check them out.

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I found another set of springs on the east side of the moraine.

I wanted to hear what the oak were saying up at Lapham Peak, where Mike Fort and the Lapham Peak Friends have been restoring the prairies, oak woodlands and oak savannas for over 20 years. They have perfected techniques for cutting, stacking and burning buckthorn that are models of efficiency. This past week they did a 75 acre prescribed burn in the area marked in white on the map below and they burned approximately 177 acres total in the park this spring burn season.

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This huge swath of the north flank of the peak extends from “the big slide” cross country ski trail east to the tower hill road. I was in awe taking in the scope of the effort as I well remember this hillside was thick with buckthorn.

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The oaks were swaying and singing gratefully with the blustery north wind, giving thanks for the tender loving care of the Lapham Peak Friends.

Approaching the tower.

A bird’s eye view from the tower (I need a wind screen for the camera mic).

If you haven’t visited Lapham Peak lately, or ever, consider paying attention to what the friends have accomplished and spend some present moments there.

On Sunday, May 12th, I was back at The Springs. Wow, I wonder how long it will take for the forest floor to become green again. I wonder if the native flowers and grasses will have enough strength in their roots to push up fresh growth this year; or next. I began the day spraying garlic mustard, which appeared in isolated patches that escaped the fires.

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I was pleasantly surprised, and heart warmed, to see Lindsay, his wife, Connie and her granddaughter Sophia, arrive to pick up a load of wood.

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When I talked to Don Dane after the burn he mentioned that this would be a great time to attack the spotted knapweed on the Indian Campground. Loaded with the recipe I got from Lindsay, I started that application. Spraying herbicide is my least favorite thing to do in the woods and I limit how much I do in a day. There is plenty more garlic mustard and spotted knapweed proliferating out there and I’ll be spraying for the next two months.

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Some scenes from the Indian Campground.

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Looking down into the river valley from the Indian Campground.

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Next on the agenda was girdling aspen. I intended to continue working at the old hotel site, but I thought better of it as I was walking down the river valley, and I attacked a few isolated clonal colonies that were spreading into the valley.

A quick stop at the Scuppernong Spring.

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Finally, I started piling buckthorn just north of the old barn site. I have been a cutting fool for the last couple months thinking that I would get a crew of inmates from the Sturtevant Transitional Facility to help me pile, but I don’t think that is going to work out, so I’ll be piling for the next few weeks to catch up. I made around 10 piles and it was very relaxing work with a great view down the river to the west.

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DNR Visitor Services Associate extraordinaire Amanda Prange is leading an effort to install a new set of signposts to match the trail brochure.

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The Hatching House Spring is looking great.

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I followed the channel of the Indian Spring’s towards it’s junction with the Scuppernong River and caught this panorama video. The marl pit factory ruins are just to the right of the sun.

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Speaking of which!

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See you at The Springs!

Mother Nature Naked

She is not bashful, nor does she suffer any embarrassment when her naked beauty is revealed; nevertheless, Mother Nature typically clothes herself in a wide variety of fine raiment. Cloaked in snow or covered by meadows and prairies of wild grasses and flowers, or hidden under a blanket of leaves, she rarely shows off her warm, rich, chocolaty skin of bare soil; unless from the scars of the farmer’s till. Springs have always evoked the generative, life sustaining qualities that remind us of our intimate connection and dependence on Mother Nature. I hope that you enjoy these pictures of the Scuppernong Springs and appreciate the beauty of Mother Nature stripped bare. I can’t wait till she is dressed again in fresh colors.

I took some pictures on May 6th before the burn and got some post burn shots yesterday. The fire did its work with consummate efficiency. The tour starts at the Hotel Springs and follows the trail to the north past the old barn site and then takes the cut-off trail west to the marl pits, joining the main loop trail to cross the bridge at the stream gaging station, and onto the Indian Campground, the south end of the loop and finally, from the Scuppernong Spring down the river valley returning to the Hotel Spring.

Looking south from the Hotel Springs area.

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The old hotel site.

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Below is the bowl of the lower pond and it was thickly covered with cattails, willow and other vegetation. When I lit this from the west bank of the river, it erupted into a conflagration of intense and immense proportion that engulfed the bowl in 20′ flames, from which a column of black smoke ascended high above the tree tops.

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The east junction of the cut-off trail and the main loop trail.

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Walking west on the cut-off trail.

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Lindsay worked hard to save this unusual oak tree that speared its spreading branches into the earth.
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The last few pictures above are where the cut-off trail meets the main loop trail at the marl pits. Elias Wilson lit over 30 brush piles in this area in approximately an hour. I am thrilled to see the views that have opened up into the Scuppernong River valley from the main loop trail as you approach the stream gaging station bridge.

These views to the south show the area to the east of the marl pit bridge.

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The day of the burn I witnessed a roaring head fire move across this area and I worried for the safety of the marl pit bridge, which you can see at the right of this picture.

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When I got there I found the southeast corner of the bridge on fire and put it out as quick as I could. Sorry Ron!!!

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Here are some before and after shots taken from the marl pit bridge.

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Some views from the area at or near the bridge at the stream gaging station.

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During the mop up, Dan tried to drop this smoldering snag to the north, away from the trail, but without wedges, it was impossible. I cleared this from the trail yesterday.

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Classic views from the Indian Campground.

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She scenery at the south end of the loop trail.

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Dropping into the bowl of the Scuppernong Spring.

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Looking down the valley.

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Lindsay discovered the boardwalk at the far end of the Hatching House Spring, which is in the foreground of the picture below, and made a valiant effort to save it; getting a close encounter with intense heat on his face, especially his nose. He flipped it over and the fire went out, but the boardwalk is badly damaged.
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I have been planning for a couple months with the work release coordinators at the Sturtevant Transitional Facility to have some inmate “volunteers” come out to The Springs to help pile brush. Yesterday was our “pilot” adventure and the plane may have crashed. The inmates may have agreed in principle to volunteer but they were not told in advance when this might occur. Yesterday they were already on-site at the Bong Recreational Area, where they have been working for over a month to earn “release” money, when they were ordered to get in the van and “volunteer” at the Scuppernong Springs under threat of going to “the hole” if they did not agree. They were willing to volunteer, but not under those conditions and not at the expense of giving up a day when they could earn some desperately needed money ($2.00/hr after the State takes its cut). They were not in the best of spirits and when I found out the story, I suggested they just relax, which they did. But watching me pile all by myself, they couldn’t help it and they did pitch in a bit. We made 18 piles at the start of the buckthorn alley and another 8 piles by the Hotel Springs.

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John, Mike, Jeremy and Ray.

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John found these “mushrooms” above the old hotel site. Turkey eggs?

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The fire did not obliterate all the color. Below, the marsh marigolds are flowering at the Hillside Springs.

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A beautiful, warm, bug-free sunset!

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See you at The Springs!

Pile on many more layers

Welcome back to The Springs! Yesterday, Saturday, April 13, I was joined by a group of volunteers organized by DNR Visitor Services Associate Amanda Prange. We started the day with a walk around the springs looking for places to install Warbler houses that the volunteers, including Rich Csavoy, made. It was a great feeling to share the appreciation I have for the Scuppernong Springs with other like minded souls. DNR Ranger Elias Wilson and Amanda settled on this spot under a weeping willow by the Hotel Springs.

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Roberta “Berta” and Amanda.

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We continued our walk around the springs but did not find another suitable location. Warblers need lots of space! Then we headed over to the cut-off trail and were joined by Amanda’s boyfriend Justin, and his mother Beth, and we began piling brush.

I was amazed that we made 13 piles in a little over an hour!

Here is the crew from left to right Beth, Amanda, Justin, Berta and Elias.

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In the afternoon I relocated to the area just north of the old barn site to continue cutting buckthorn around the perimeter of another spring that is at the base of the slope below Hwy 67. This one needs a good cleaning out, which we plan to do once the weather warms up. Here are a few shots of the area before I began cutting.

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Three tanks of gas later.

Here is the view of the old barn site as seen from the bridge over the Scuppernong River at #5 on the trail map, where the stream gaging station is.

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The sun made a few brief appearances that were much appreciated, one of which occurred as I was passing the Hatching House Springs.

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I can’t wait for warm, sunny, green days to arrive.

See you at The Springs!

WDNR Awarded $75,000 NAWCA Grant

There was quite a buzz at the South Kettle Moraine State Forest Headquarters as news of the $75,000 North American Wetlands Conservation Act award echoed in the surrounding oaks. Phase IV of the Scuppernong River Habitat Area restoration effort will proceed full speed ahead thanks to the efforts of Project Officer Matt Zine and Grant Preparer Dave Hoffman, who did an excellent job on his first grant proposal. The majority of the $75,000 matching funds required to secure the grant is being provided by the Kettle Moraine Natural History Association. Our volunteer efforts are as good as gold and will also be used to help make the match.

The NAWCA grant represents another step in the leadership transition at forest headquarters as they try to do the impossible and fill Ron Kurowski’s shoes. Dave Hoffman was a limited term employee when I ran into him at the Scuppernong Springs last October and since then he has accepted a full-time position as an Wildlife Technician (Advanced) working for the Bureau of Endangered Resources in the Southern Unit. He is back “home” in Eagle and couldn’t be happier. I think he deserves a raise!

Here are a couple pictures of the north and south sections of the Scuppernong River Habitat Area showing the work described for Phase IV in the grant proposal.

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We share the “buzz” with the DNR staff and look forward to seeing the Phase IV goals realized!

Meanwhile, back at “The Springs”, there is plenty of buckthorn that needs cutting. There are a couple of gaffes in the narrative below: Robert Duerwachter wrote THE PONDS OF THE SCUPPERNONG (not William!); and no, this was not the last of the buckthorn that needs to be cut.

Lindsay and I cut a heap of buckthorn and Pati helped pile the brush.

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Later, Pati and I took a dreamy walk visiting all the springs.

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The cut-off trail has some wet spots so be prepared if you want to take that path. Hopefully, the DNR will be able to make improvements to complete the resurrection of the “lost trail“.

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See you at the Springs!

Kettle Moraine Oak Opening

I really love everything about Oak trees. Their stately grandeur, sweeping curves, deep shade, fissured bark, colorful leaves and nutty fruits give them a marvelous character. At the recent Oak Opening Workshop I was inspired to join in the efforts of the Oak Savanna Alliance and, when I got Jared Urban’s email invitation to a workday at the Kettle Moraine Oak Opening, that was all I needed to take action.

This past Saturday I joined Jared Urban and Amanda Prange, from the DNR and Herb Sharpless, Virginia Coburn and Zach Kastern, from the Kettle Moraine Land Trust cutting brush off a hillside prairie at the south end of the Kettle Moraine Oak Opening on Bluff Road, just east of Co. Hwy. H.

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Listen to Jared describe the project.

We split into two teams and continued to expand the already cleared areas to the west and east.

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All the while I could not wait to walk to the top of the hill and get a good look around.

I had a commitment in the afternoon at the Scuppernong Springs so was not able to explore the area, but I’ll definitely be back to stroll amongst the majestic oaks along the rolling moraines. What a cool place! I’m sorry I missed Ginny in this picture (Amanda, Zach, Herb and Jared). I really enjoyed the morning and look forward to working with them again.

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I had a date in the afternoon with Troop 131, from Fort Atkinson, to pile some brush at the Scuppernong Springs Nature Trail and I got to the cut-off trail in time to start some piles.

Thanks to DNR Assistant Superindent, Anne Korman for connecting me with troop leader Peter Jacobs. Check out this righteous group of dudes!

The conditions were pretty rough and they had been hiking all day, but they gave it their best shot and we made 20 piles.

I hope we can do it again some time!

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A couple of parting shots from the Indian Campground.

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See you at the Springs!

A Child of Nature

Steve Brasch grew up at the Scuppernong Springs.  His mother used to drop him off there with his friends in the morning with a promise to pick them up for supper.  All day they ran wild; building forts, floating on rafts in the ponds, catching creatures, running, hiding, looking, simply being in the woods.  He never lost his love of nature and, armed with a degree, he pursued a career in forestry.  Those were the Reagan years and budgets were tight; Steve had to make some tough decisions and leave the forest behind.

Over the years Steve found opportunities to volunteer with many organizations working on land restoration and his passion for the outdoors never flagged.  He moved into the Scuppernong neighborhood and, noticing the changes taking place at the Springs, decided to get involved.  Lindsay and I really appreciated Steve’s help and camaraderie yesterday as we worked the piles on the cut-off trail.  Welcome Steve!

Here are a few pictures of the brush piles we intended to burn.  This wood was cut and piled within the last month, which is pretty fresh as brush piles go, but they contained enough dead wood that we thought we could start them.

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The plan was to get the existing piles lit and then continue piling the brush we cut last week.

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Despite the cold, we got warmed up fast and the layers started coming off.  Lindsay brought his leaf blower and that proved to be the difference between success and failure; there’s nothing like a jet of fresh air to kick-start a green brush pile.

We made a few new brush piles too.

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We hope to finish clearing the buckthorn and brush between the cut-off trail and the river before spring.  The cut-off trail passes through the loveliest woodlands in the whole Scuppernong Springs Nature Preserve and it is a joyful thrill to open this area up.

See you at the Springs!

Pile up on the cut-off trail

A cold day at the Springs is better than a warm day in the office! I don’t really know cold, even though I’ve been frost bitten, like our friend Lonnie Dupre.  Back in 2005 when he and his partner, Eric Larsen, were attempting to become the first people to make their way under their own power to the North Pole in the summer, Pati and I hosted a fund raiser for their “One World Expedition“.  They made it on their second attempt and were greeted by a polar bear when they arrived!  We have followed their exploits with interest ever since and currently, Lonnie is camped at around 14,200′ on his way to the summit of Denali.  This is Lonnie’s third attempt to summit Denali solo in January, something that has never been done.  Go Lonnie Go!

I made a little fire for comfort and Rich and I enjoyed a fine day making brush piles on the cut-off trail where we have been cutting recently.  We should be able to light these piles up this season, provided we get a little more snow.  We have around 60 piles left to burn and they are all relatively close to Hwy 67.  This is on hold until we get some snow cover and an east wind.

Here are a few before pictures looking first to the right, or north side of the trail, then straight west and finally, to the south.

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We took frequent breaks by the fire to relax and warm up our finger tips; nevertheless, we did manage to stack up around 16 piles.

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We plan to keep cutting and piling along the river side of the cut-off trail pending the next opportunity to burn some more piles.

See you at the Springs!

Break On Through To The Other Side

Morning view of the Springs.

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I can’t believe we got the Lost Trail opened up before the big snow came!  Lindsay really got after it last Sunday and showed me what was possible.  With that inspiration, I finished opening up the cut-off trail today.  Here are a few before pics.

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And After…

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This temporary bridge will be replaced with something nicer next year.  You can see a bit of the Marl factory.

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Speaking of “Marl”, a man who really inspires me is Marlin Johnson, retired Biology Teacher at the University of Wisconsin, Waukesha and current Manager of the UW-Waukesha Field Station.  He recently shared two books with me: The Tibby Line – Dousman Marlboro & Southern and The Ponds of the Scuppernong, both by Robert Duerwachter (Win Press Publishing win9133@frontiernet.net).  The former documents the history of the rail line used to haul Marl from the Scuppernong Springs’ “pits” to Dousman and the Marl industry in general.  I’ll post some highlights soon.

Here is another shakey video tour of the Lost Trail.  You’ll have to supply your own spooky music.

It looks like this Saturday, December 22, will be a perfect day to start burning brush piles!  “Come on baby light my fire”.

See you at the Springs!

On the North Side

We started a new chapter in the Scuppernong River Nature Trail restoration effort today as we began cutting the Buckthorn on the North side of the River.  The area is scratched out in white on the map below.  Our goal is to reopen The Lost Trail that bisects the loop trail, which I highlighted in white below.  We want to clear the area between the trail and the River.

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Mark Mamerow, who was assigned as my “buddy” almost 25 years ago when I started working at Northwestern Mutual, is still keeping an eye on me.  He piled brush all day and made a great contribution.  Rich Csavoy did some piling and cutting as well.  And last, but not least, Pati came out to help pile brush and clear the “Sawmill Springs”.

Mark cleaned up the area by the bridge over the River at the Hotel Springs.

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And After…

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My before pictures on the North side of the River did not turn out, but here are a couple.

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And after…

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Lindsay and I have noticed a Spring just North of signpost #12 so we’ll call it the “Sawmill Springs”.  We began clearing this one out today.

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And after…

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This still needs a bit of work.

We noticed this permit posted on the bridge over the Scuppernong River at signpost #5.  This is where the Water Flow Gauges will be installed.

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In case you were wondering, the algae bloom we reported at the Hotel Springs has completed disappeared.

Mark, Pati and I enjoyed the sunset from the Indian Campground.

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Down by the River

You never know who you’ll run into at the Springs.  This morning Kris Hinrichs, the outgoing director of the Lakefront Marathon, was taking pictures for her Project 365. We had a nice visit and compared notes on what was ailing our bodies.  I searched high and low on the various Project 365 websites and Facebook but could not find her photos.  Kris, if see this, please put a link to your Project 365 photo gallery in a comment to this post.

I took these pics on the way to get some drinking water for the day from the Scuppernong Spring.

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The Hillside Springs.

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Rich Csavoy and Lindsay Knudsvig joined me and our agenda was to re-pile the phragmites that our religious friends piled back in July so that it would burn better and to finish piling all the brush along the river trail.

These phragmites piles are too spread out and would be hard to start when covered with snow.  This area is by the Hidden Springs.IMG_0158 IMG_0159 IMG_0160

And after…

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The observation deck area by the Emerald Springs.IMG_1013 IMG_0165

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We almost finished piling all of the brush along the river trail.

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Thanks Rich and Lindsay!  I hope to have an “about” Rich page added to the site soon.

After the work was done, Lindsay and I took some time to enjoy Mother Nature and we scouted out some areas where we plan to open up additional Springs.

Be on my side,
I’ll be on your side

See you at the Springs!